When Highland Park revamped its branding in 2017 to play up their location-based connection to Vikings, whisky fans rolled their eyes. The distillery’s switch from understated to eye-catching bottles, each with a “Viking” nickname, struck enthusiasts as nothing more than an attention grab. Adding fuel to the proverbial fire was the simultaneous introduction of a North American-only release named after the distillery’s founder, Magnus Eunson.

This release, dubbed Highland Park Magnus, became the Orkney distillery’s new introductory bottle for the American market by being a cheaper, non-age-stated version of the venerable Highland Park 12-Year. Both whiskies are aged in a combination of first-fill sherry casks and ex-bourbon barrels before Highland Park waters them down to 40% ABV. This means the minimum age for Magnus is three years, making it look like a terrible value proposition at $40 compared to the 12-Year at $55.

Highland Park wasn’t the only player introducing NAS versions of previously entry-level expressions. Glenlivet and Bunnahabhain took a similar approach with the Founder’s Reserve and Stiuireadair, respectively. And while Stiuireadair retained Bunnahabhain’s usual 46.3% bottling strength, the product still landed with a thud.

Highland Park must’ve caught the memo because Magnus is absent from their website, even when you search the archive section. Between this and the fact that I recently found it on clearance at Publix for about $24, it stands to reason that Highland Park Magnus may no longer be in production. Does Magnus offer more than meets the eye, or is it merely a shell of its older sibling?

Nose: Creamy and coastal, like a combination of vanilla, citrus, and mussels. Hints of raw almond, too. It’s bright and a touch abrasive, suggesting relative youth and aggressive proofing.  

Palate: Salty with light upfront notes of dehydrated green apple and cooked pineapple. Quickly thins out from the mid to back palate. A bright, mellow touch of berries and nuttiness with vanilla cream gives the profile some structure.

Finish: Hints of lingering maritime essence akin to recently stepping out of the sea or ocean. Creaminess from the palate barely hangs on.

Highland Park Magnus is one of the most conflicted spirits I can think of. The nose is distinctly salty, bringing Talisker Select Reserve Greyjoy to mind, but without nearly as much vibrance. Palate-wise, it drinks thin, sometimes giving the impression of drinking higher than 40% ABV — and not in a good way. Some whiskies can fool you by delivering intense and rich flavors despite their low bottling strength, but not Magnus. It’s watery, a touch abrasive, and generally fails to provide a compelling drinking experience. I enjoy peat and coastal notes as much as the next whisky fan, but Magnus delivers these components in an impressively unremarkable way.

When I drink Highland Park Magnus, it feels like work. The flavors come across flimsily due partly to the whisky’s thin nature, and the discernible flavors aren’t particularly great or memorable. The result is a pour that awkwardly straddles the line between aggressive and boring. I’d call it a Couch Pour, but Magnus feels just brazen enough to avoid slipping into the background. Chances are only the most budget-conscious of curious whisky drinkers will find this a worthwhile exploration.