The modern American whiskey scene is ripe with resurrected brand names, often complete with stories intended to entice new and established drinkers alike. After all, few things scream “bourbon” like tradition, legacy, history, and other classically marketable buzzwords. So when we look at Green River, it’s easy to be won over simply by the fact it’s Kentucky’s tenth oldest distillery. However, it’s important that we don’t conflate “old” with “continually producing whiskey,” a point that Buffalo Trace will pitch with pride. Green River as we know it in 2023 is a recent outfit ostensibly riding the coattails of the brand’s golden years.

Let’s start with that, shall we? Green River Distillery was originally founded in 1885 by John Wellington McCulloch, who previously worked as a gauger for the IRS. Soon enough, the distillery became highly celebrated, winning a number of awards around the turn of the 20^th century while also becoming the official whiskey of the U.S. Marine Hospital between 1913 to 1931. What’s more, a host of brands we’re familiar with today were produced at Green River at some point, including Ezra Brooks, Mellow Corn, and Five Brothers. As with many distilleries between Prohibition and the whiskey lull of the 70s and 80s, however, Green River fell into abandonment after several changes in ownership.

What eventually followed wasn’t too surprising, but did bring a couple twists (one regrettable, the other for the best). Reconstruction of the Owensboro distillery began in 2014 when TerrePURE, a subsidiary of Terrasentia, purchased it and renamed the site to O.Z. Tyler Distillery, taking the name after chemist Orville Zelotes Tyler III, who patented the TerrePURE process used in the production of some…questionable products. That was the first twist. The second came in 2020 when O.Z. Tyler was renamed back to Green River, prompting an effective re-launch of the recently resurrected distillery. Things got more interesting two years later when growing Kentucky giant Bardstown Bourbon Company purchased Green River, more or less coinciding with the first contemporary Green River bottle launch.

Reception to this launch was almost universally favorable, especially considering the favorable price point. Customers wouldn’t have to wait long for a new whiskey from the Owensboro distillery, as a wheated bourbon soon followed. Like the aforementioned rye-bourbon, Green River Wheated Bourbon is bottled at 45% ABV and retails for about $35, making it a competitive on-paper option just for being a generously priced wheater. Does the whiskey inside make an equally strong case? Let’s dig in.

Nose: Lightly creamy cereal grain essence brings almond candy and hints of dusty, floral notes to mind. Roasted cornmeal, dried lemon, and some light brown sugar with gentle, wooden spice cabinet notes in the background.

Palate: Creamy, mellow mouthfeel with just a touch of pepper spice on the back end. I get a brief touch of dried apricot upfront while vanilla bean, light brown sugar, and grain toast with a sprinkle of cinnamon dust largely define the profile.

Finish: An effervescent essence starts to develop. Hints of dusty nut mingle seamlessly with light oak and buttered bread notes.

Everyday, budget-friendly wheated bourbons remain something of an anomaly heading into 2024. Maker’s Mark has all but led that charge in lieu of Weller Special Reserve’s deserved availability. Meanwhile, brands like Rebel and Larceny have effectively been playing catchup. Green River Wheated Bourbon seamlessly slots itself in as a decent contender with a well-rounded personality. That’s effectively the strongest case one can make when recommending it to the average whiskey consumer. Is it to the point that the aforementioned dynamic duo from Beam Suntory and Sazerac (respectively) have some strong competition on their hands? I wouldn’t rule it out.

For my money, Maker’s Mark is the preferred wheated bourbon, especially since it lands in the low to mid-$20 range locally. Yet the safer profile that Green River has tapped into for their wheated bourbon is absolutely worth considering. By “safer,” I mean it’s less likely to impression drinkers with some of the more off-putting wheated bourbon notes, particularly from younger products. Even though Green River’s attempt definitely showcases the grain quite a bit, it’s not to the same distracting extent as other products, whether from large or small producers. This makes the bourbon that much easier to recommend, even to skeptics of wheated mash bills.