Many long-time whiskey drinkers might remark that their spirit of choice simply isn’t made like it once was. The actual process itself isn’t far removed from years past, but the final products of today often taste different than their previous iterations. This is regardless of how much a given distillery aspires to achieve consistency from era to era. Such could be the result of subtle changes in production, ingredient sources, age ranges, or batching capabilities, just to name a few. For example, the brand Pikesville originated in 1895 as a “Maryland rye,” which was known for having a lot of corn in an otherwise rye-dominant mash bill, giving it a sweeter profile than other rye whiskeys.

To modern whiskey consumers, that almost certainly sounds like a barely legal, Kentucky-style rye. However, Maryland ryes were known for having approximately 60-70% rye in their mash bill while Kentucky ryes often utilize a sub-60% proportion. This makes the current version of Pikesville an apt example of whiskey retaining the name without taking the experience with it. At least, that’s what we’re left to assume without the Pikesville bottles of old to compare. Despite the impact of Prohibition and shifting ownership, Pikesville remained in production through 1972, with the late Majestic distillery in Lansdowne, MD, holding the last barrels until 1982.

Heaven Hill makes the Pikesville whiskey many of us are familiar with, implementing a pedestrian barely legal rye mash bill of 51% rye, 35% corn, and 14% malted barley. Until Elijah Craig Rye’s introduction in early 2020, Pikesville and Rittenhouse were the Bardstown distillery’s only core range ryes. Pikesville is also the only one of those three to carry an age statement (six years). Furthermore, Pikesville is often considered an older, proofier version of the venerable Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond Rye. Pricing and availability for Pikesville varies depending on where you live, but it’s recently become easier to find in my area for a going rate of $50-$55.

Nose: Immediately leads with light brown sugar and citrus notes, namely orange with a bit of lemon zest and hints of pine. Some clove and a bit anise present over a mild, momentary presence of dill Havarti that soon gives way in favor of grass, yeast, and dusty wood.

Palate: Comes on vibrant and fruity before taking on more baking spices and gentle herb notes. Light brown sugar and orange notes hold true from the nose while some lime and pepper join the fray. Although the flavor profile initially leans towards traditional rye whiskey notes, it also brings ample corn influence as vanilla and light caramel become increasingly apparent, almost treading a candy/dessert level of sweetness. Everything is held together by a moderate, creamy viscosity and approachable heat level from the respectable proof point.

Finish: Lemon and lime develop as the pour sits, becoming tarter over time. The gentle spice and herb notes hit an approachable equilibrium, bringing coriander to mind while a tingling pepper spice builds, complemented by a welcome presence of oaky warmth on the back of the throat.

A common complaint with barely legal rye whiskeys is that they effectively blur the line between rye whiskey and high-rye bourbon flavor profiles. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that; it actually makes them a perfect bridge between the two categories. But for fans of higher rye content, barely legal options can feel off, as if stilted by the clash between corn and rye. That or they just lack the more vibrant and exciting notes that come from using more rye in the mash bill. For better or worse, Pikesville fits comfortably into its barely legal, often Kentucky-based camp.

Some of the expected rye whiskey notes are absolutely present in Pikesville, just not to the extent that certain drinkers will long for. Citrus flavors make their presence known while herbs occasionally sneak in, leaving plenty of room for bourbon-adjacent notes to share. That classic trinity of caramel, vanilla, and brown sugar becomes increasingly apparent with subsequent sips. It’s not enough to completely cut through the tart citrus profile and growing combination of oak and pepper spice, but you’ll definitely notice the progression.

Although Pikesville seemingly blends in with the crowd with its jack-of-both-trades personality, it has an edge or two over the competition. The combination of a six-year age statement and a hearty 55% bottling strength helps Pikesville feel fulfilling, regardless of whether you enjoy it neat or in a cocktail. I’d actually argue the latter is where it shines brightest, so much so that it’s become my preferred base for a Sazerac. Availability can be spotty in some markets (see yours truly), but when spotted, the price is often agreeable at around $50, sometimes less. All of this is to say that what Pikesville lacks in distinction, it handily makes up for in versatility and competence. I’d absolutely keep a bottle on hand at all times for elevated Sazeracs and occasional neat pours whenever possible.