Facelifts are nothing new in the world of whiskey. Most distilleries make adjustments, big or small, to their bottles every few years. Even the same producer may make a drastic change to some of their bottles, but subtle changes to others (Wild Turkey and Old Forester come to mind). Heaven Hill is no stranger to this side of branding, with the evolution of Elijah Craig probably being their most recognizable example, often to the chagrin of enthusiasts. Curiously, the brand’s Evan Williams line has had a somewhat different (uninteresting) history with only four core bottles and a smattering of limited releases. But before we get into how 1783 Small Batch is a small exception, let’s briefly consider the man behind the whiskey’s name.

Although Evan Williams made a name for himself as both a distiller and member of civic leadership, he was actually born in Wales (Dale, Pembrokeshire). Per Explore KY History, he came to Kentucky around 1780 and, shortly after arriving, noticed a surplus of grains due to a combination of rich soil and lack of industry. This lit the proverbial spark for him creating a distillery along the Ohio River, which he used to transport barrels down via flatboat. Fun fact: Williams’ distilling license from 1801 “indicated that he owned three whiskey stills licensed at 141, 130 and 93 gallons.” If you asked the team at Heaven Hill, they’d say he was the first Kentucky distiller—they proudly display such contention on 1783 Small Batch.

Back to the whiskey in question. Evan Williams 1783 used to occupy a distinctly unassuming space on liquor store shelves as a low proof, NAS product with an abundantly appropriate bottle design. While most of that remains true with 1783’s recent refresh, the changes are worth pointing out and ostensibly slide it up the scale a smidge. The most noticeable adjustment is the bottle and label. In the grand scheme it’s still fairly plain, but the perception of a higher quality product is tangible. Next is the question of aging. Although 1783 remains NAS, the 2021 press release claims no more than 200 barrels aged six to eight years are used for each batch. Finally, Heaven Hill bumped the bottling strength of 1783 from 43% to 45%, which should theoretically give it an extra boost in flavor and personality.

Evan Williams 1783 is made from 78% corn, 12% malted barley, and 10% rye, the same bourbon mash bill as Elijah Craig and Henry McKenna. Retail pricing is approximately $20 for a 750ml bottle.

Nose: Buttered toast, cinnamon sugar, a little fennel, and slight cigar shop vibes, complete with a slightly floral vanilla undercurrent. Everything is tied together with woody, peanut butter cookie overtones. Altogether pleasant, cohesive, and unsurprising.

Palate: Sweet yet balanced. Light notes of brown butter, honey, and caramel abound with a surprisingly supple texture. A tangible, drying sensation on the back complements the nutty wood backbone and reminds you that there’s decently aged whiskey in here.

Finish: Naturally follows the palate with lingering brown butter, peanut brittle, and slightly dehydrated vanilla. Strikes a nice equilibrium between slightly drying oak and sweeter grain-based flavors.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a modern, budget-friendly bourbon with a more quintessential profile than Evan Williams 1783. That doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the best bourbon for the price, but I also wouldn’t rule it out for debate. What I mean is that when I think of what contemporary bourbon can and should taste like to your average consumer, Evan Williams 1783 is an immediate contender.

Heaven Hill claims that this bourbon is aged 6-8 years, and based on tasting, I believe them. Whether you get more nuttiness or straight up oak on the palate and finish, you definitely notice the influence of aging on the final product. The aforementioned drying sensation on the finish is worth mentioning as well since it adds depth and balance to a pour that might otherwise inspire apathy. To be clear, we’re still talking about a no-frills, budget bourbon, but it’s still nice to see a competent option at such an agreeable price. This is a pour that can work for multiple applications, be it neat, on the rocks, or in cocktails. A versatile option that won’t break the bank from one of Kentucky’s most reliable distilleries. You really can’t go wrong.