The Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (BTAC) is largely considered the peak American whiskey product line. Although the Van Winkle expressions (also from Buffalo Trace) are often considered more valuable, in part due to their rarity, BTAC is arguably more comprehensive and even desired in some circles. As with many bottles lines, however, there’s a bit a black sheep in the mix.

Thomas H. Handy, named after a 19^th century New Orleans bartender famous for using rye whiskey instead of brandy in the Sazerac cocktail, is one of two BTAC rye whiskeys. More than that, it’s the only expression in said collection with a single-digit age statement. Where the rest of the line typically ranges from 12-18 years, Handy comes in at a comparatively paltry six years and change. This means the whiskey is ostensibly not much different from other, similarly aged Kentucky ryes bottled uncut and unfiltered. And while Handy absolutely has its fans, one can’t help but be thrown off by that stats.

That is, until we taste it, perhaps? I came into a sample of the 2022 Thomas H. Handy bottling, which makes it the second BTAC expression I’ll have tried in some capacity. Curiously, the normally hush-hush Buffalo Trace provides some nicely detailed information sheets on each vintage of their Antique Collection bottles. A few details of note include:

• Rye sourced from Minnesota, grade #1 and #2 corn from Kentucky, and barley from North Dakota
• Produced using a sour mash, with the grains cooked to 240 degrees Fahrenheit
• Distilled twice before coming off the still at 135 proof and entering a #4 char barrel (55 seconds) at 125 proof
• Aged in warehouses I, L, and M on the 2^nd, 4^th, 5^th, and 6^th floors
• 69% yield from the barrels after aging (due to evaporation)

The 2022 edition of Thomas H. Handy comes in at 65.45% ABV and although MSRP is around $100, listed prices often hover closer to $400 or so.

Nose: Citrus Oil (Lemon), Brown Butter, Meringue, Pepper

Vibrant, Buttery, Floral

Palate: Caramel, Orange, Pepper, Barrel Char

Bold, Thick, Bright

Finish: Rye Spice, Dried Citrus (Lemon), White Pepper, Clove

Warm, Creamy, Effervescent

I definitely see why this whiskey has its fans. Although I’ve had a decent range of rye whiskeys, few of them hit quite like this one. Least of all from Kentucky. The flavor profile isn’t unique in and of itself, but the way those notes come across is a different story. Bottle Raiders compared the experience to that of Booker’s, and I think that’s the perfect way to put it into perspective for those who haven’t tried Thomas H. Handy.

Let’s talk about that profile for a moment. To me, the 2022 Handy tastes like a big, bold lemon citrus bomb complete with huge viscosity and a lingering creaminess that only improves with subsequent sips. If you took the standard Sazerac rye, bottled it at cask strength, amped up the pepper and spice notes while throwing in some floral qualities for good measure, you’d essentially get Thomas H. Handy. It’s fun and just aggressive enough to satisfy just about anyone who’s even the slightest bit into both rye whiskey and elevated proof points. This doesn’t even remotely translate to a whiskey that justifies its frequently elevated price points, but for around MSRP, I’d have a tough time saying no.