Bonded whiskey is an easy category to take for granted in the 21^st century. As modern whiskey consumers continually demand transparency, the significance of the Bottled in Bond Act has seemingly become less relevant in the grand scheme. It’s a bit of a shame, considering this act was the first truth-in-advertising law passed in the United States, even predating the formation of the FDA. One could argue that the Bottled in Bond Act is the backbone for quality assurance in American whiskey, be it bourbon, rye whiskey, or otherwise.

Although whiskeys that meet the bonded criteria might not have the same pull they did over a century ago, many producers are still keen to capitalize. The team at Heaven Hill is acutely aware of this, evidenced by the fact they produce five bonded whiskeys. Of those, Evan Williams (otherwise known as Evan Williams White Label) is far and away the most popular, thanks in no small part to it being the most affordable bonded bourbon that Heaven Hill continually produces at under $20 for a fifth. It’s then of little surprise that Heaven Hill boasts having the top-selling bonded bourbon in the world. Considering it was only introduced in 2012, it’s that much more impressive of a feat.

What makes Evan Williams Bottled in Bond a fun point of discussion is, ironically, how uninteresting it appears to be. Budget-minded shelfers get barely more than a passing glance from whiskey enthusiasts. The quest for finding and trying new, thrilling expressions is THE driving force for more adventurous drinkers. And there are few bottles on shelves that inspire less excitement than the basic Evan Williams options. This probably speaks more to the novelty of exclusivity than to the question of quality and enjoyment, but I’d be remiss to say they’re mutually exclusive.  

Regardless, I believe there’s great value in returning to bottles that once satisfied the itch for worthwhile whiskey at a great price. Sometimes a proverbial trip down memory lane can remind you that simple pleasures have their place while putting into perspective the line between new favorites and old loves. This goes doubly so when conducting side-by-side tastings. That’s part of the goal with today’s review of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. I’d been meaning to revisit it for a while before receiving a request to review it on my oft-ignored Instagram page. The request effectively sealed the deal.

The bottle I’m reviewing is from before Heaven Hill updated the label design. More specifically, according to the laser code (thanks, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof C923 conspiracies), I deduced that my bottle was filled in early 2020.

Nose: Toffee almond and lightly roasted corn notes with a slight floral component lingering in the background. Some clove, ground cinnamon, and nutmeg while the almond note evolves into more of a nut butter over time.

Palate: Honey Nut Cheerios, roasted peanuts, and a prompt yet gentle presence of ground pepper. A light layer of caramel lends itself to a more defined peanut brittle note, complete with an expected supply of light brown sugar.

Finish: Residual pepper notes joined by lightly spicy and drying wood. A growing presence of roasted peanuts closes the experience out with just enough warmth to make note of.

This is only my second bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. I drank my first one around 2020 and ultimately liked it less as I worked my way through the bottle. Coming back to this quintessential budget option, however, has been a pleasant surprise. Much of what this bourbon brings to the table is par for the course, especially from Heaven Hill: a nutty, slightly sweet profile that drinks well thanks in part to its proof point. This is despite the relative youth and low price tag. To that end, Evan Williams Bottled in Bond feels like an ideal contender for the “working man’s bourbon.” And I think that’s a vital perspective to consider, particularly for enthusiasts (self-proclaimed or not).

It’s easy to develop tunnel vision when taking up a hobby and really getting into it. You might even become a supposed expert compared to others who derive a more simple pleasure from it. However, with whiskey, most of the business continues to exist thanks to people buying affordable bottles from household names. Critics, influences, and the like may drive discussions and interest in the latest limited releases, but when it comes to keeping the wheels churning, they’re ultimately a few drops in an amply-filled bucket.

In all fairness, most people purchasing bottles like Evan Williams Bottled in Bond aren’t buying it to generate discussion. The space it occupies is shared with many bottles that most of us are familiar with, and it’s one that rarely (if ever) inspires excitement: the common shelfer. When someone outside of the bottle’s intended demographic buys it, they’re likely revisiting it out of curiosity to see how it stacks up after trying more impressive options. And for my money, this holds up nicely.

I found myself remarking that this “is just a damn solid bourbon” while drinking it neat and was similarly pleased when using it to make cocktails. It truly checks all of the boxes that you’d hope a budget-minded bourbon would and possibly exceeds an expectation or two. The bonded designation may be an afterthought for many folks, especially when applied to a bottom shelf option like this, but I think it ultimately boosts the value proposition. Although it doesn’t inherently make the bourbon taste better than other, similar options, it does stand as an affordable example of whiskey that meets criteria intended for quality assurance. That the bourbon is solid in its own right only sweetens the deal even further.