Many late whiskey brands and distilleries have seen their own form of resurrection thanks to growing interest in the grain-based spirit. The industry is ripe with stories to pull people in, and few are as tried and true as bringing back something that was previously abandoned. Case in point: Green River Distilling. Although the name Green River is gradually becoming familiar to everyday consumers as one to watch, they’ve had a bumpy road up to this point.
Originally formed by TJ Monarch in 1880 as Eagle Distillery, the site was renamed Green River Distilling Company after John W. McCulloch bought it in 1885 and began producing whiskey. Success continued until 1918 when a fire broke out, effectively destroying the site, including over 43,000 barrels of whiskey. Prohibition soon followed in 1920, leaving the distillery unattended. Reconstruction did occur in 1936, but with shifting ownership and dwindling interest in whiskey, the then-named Old Charles Medley Distillery was ultimately shuttered for many years.
Fast-forward to 2014 and Terrepure Spirit of the Terressentia Corporation purchased the site for $12 million, renamed it OZ Tyler, and began producing rapidly aged whiskey in 2016. The results didn’t draw much celebration from whiskey enthusiasts. As if in response, the distillery saw another name change, this time harkening back to its more successful roots as the Green River distillery. 2019 saw what could be considered the distillery’s first true bourbon release in some time with Wheel Horse, introduced as a 2-year age-stated product. More recent batches sport a slightly updated bottle design with a three-year age statement. It’s distilled from a mash bill of 70% corn, 21% rye, and 9% malted barley, forgoes chill filtration, and is bottled at 50.5% ABV for a price of about $35.
Despite being distilled and aged in Owensboro, KY, Wheel Horse bourbon is bottled in Rumford, RI, by Latitude Beverage Company, a name that may be familiar to fans of Copper & Cask.
Nose: Almond butter with a yeasty undercurrent and some orange zest. Cinnamon sugar, a bit of cornbread, marzipan, and hay. Smells gently aged yet surprisingly full and warm.
Palate: Corn grain, almond, and pound cake with a building presence of cinnamon spice. Soft mouthfeel, barring the lightly spicy oak characteristic.
Finish: Slightly floral with hints of vanilla and a faint, yet lingering nuttiness from the palate. Final impression is a light, woody warmth more than any truly discernible flavor.
Bottles like Wheel Horse can be a tough sell when bourbon fans become jaded from so much selection. A three-year-old bourbon from a recently resurrected distillery, particularly one that previously released suspicious whiskey, isn’t bound to inspire interest. Even brands like Still Austin and Chattanooga Whiskey that do really well at younger ages aren’t sparking fervor outside of select groups.
Unsurprisingly, Green River’s Wheel Horse bourbon fares well if less than remarkably. It’s definitely a promising start for a relatively immature whiskey, as money gets tighter and bourbon selection continues to grow, its place becomes even less certain. Even at an agreeable sub-$40 price point, competition is stiff and, in many cases, more appealing. For example, Wild Turkey 101 is at least twice as old for a fraction of the cost while Knob Creek is three times the age for effectively the same price as Wheel Horse. Although these are heavy-hitting staples from legacy distilleries, they ultimately highlight the standard many will judge new options against. And unfortunately for Wheel Horse, its incentives fall woefully short despite being an acceptable, quality pour in its own right.
The Whiskey Ramble 