Anyone who knows me knows that I’m incredibly skeptical of hyper-aged bourbons. I generally believe that most bourbons hit their peak around 10-12 years and that anything older often needs comparatively younger barrels to balance everything out. There are obviously exceptions, including highly aged blends like Russell’s Reserve 15-Year, but high age statements don’t carry the inherent luster they used to for me. So why am I reviewing Evan Williams 23-Year, you ask? Because when you get a surprise sample in the mail, you don’t stare the giver in the mouth. Besides, what’s the harm in sharing thoughts on a bottle that I’m sure many drinkers have never seen in-person?

The reason for Evan Williams 23-Year being so rare is threefold: the heightened age statement, the limited yields, and restricted availability. Although the Evan Williams website says this bottle is only available at the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience in Louisville, others have reported finding it on occasion at the Heaven Hill Gift Shop and, more commonly (using that word loosely), in Japan. That last part makes sense when we consider that Evan Williams 12-Year, the second most expensive and highly aged Evan Williams product, has similarly limited availability.

As for the whiskey itself, it’s distilled from the same mash bill as many other Evan Williams products (78% corn, 12% malted barley, 10% rye) and comes bottled at a supple 107 proof. This makes Evan Williams 23 the highest proofed recurring release from the brand – the new American 250 single barrels will likely be a one-time drop. This is interesting since other highly aged products from Heaven Hill generally come in at lower proof points: 90 proof for the largely abandoned Elijah Craig 23, 94.7 proof for the Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 27, 96 proof for Parker’s Heritage 27 Year, etc. Even the upcoming Elijah Craig 21 revival will come in at 94 proof. When The Bourbon Culture reviewed Evan Williams 23 Year, they mentioned asking Whiskey Ambassador Emeritus Bernie Lubbers about the aging environment for Evan Williams, who said the barrels used likely come from the bottom floors of existing rickhouses, thereby reducing evaporation. If so, this means Evan Williams 23 Year may be fairly close to cask strength. Retail pricing on Evan Williams 23 Year seems to hover around $400, which isn’t far off from the price it’s commanded for several years.

Nose: Cherry, Caramel, Dark Brown Sugar, Tobacco

Leathery, Syrupy, Rich

Palate: Luxardo Cherry, Vanilla Paste, Brown Butter, Marzipan

Velvety, Leathery, Oaky

Finish: Tobacco, Nutmeg, Ground Clove, Hazelnut

Short-Medium, Watery, Tannic

Talk about an unfortunate downturn. So much of the pleasure I got from sipping Evan Williams 23 came from the nose, which is simply amazing. If I had a bit more of my sample left, I’d likely save it primarily for nosing on a really good night – it’s that good. My modest expectations spiked with anticipation, not unlike videogame hype pre-release as a kid. Then the palate hit and it was…good, possibly great, but definitely existed in the shadow of the nose. “Maybe the finish will pick things back up,” I thought. Alas, things continued to slip as the finish, despite a commendable proof point, fell off of a cliff, even after multiple sips.

Beyond that, the big question is likely how oaky and balanced the profile is? The expected assortment of leather, oak, cherry, and (for me) hazelnut notes are plentiful here, and despite the aforementioned lackluster turns, everything feels as reigned in as it could be. The waxy, leathery vibes felt more balanced than say, Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Bottled in Bond, but that bottle was way more consistent from nose to finish, so the comparison is a bit closer to a stalemate in that sense.

Altogether, Evan Williams 23-Year is a good experience and mostly balanced representation of hyper-aged bourbon. I wouldn’t go out of my way to track down a bottle or even a pour, but if offered, it’s absolutely worth trying – even just for experience the sheer joy of the nose.