I’ve been woefully slow to review more Four Roses products. One reason is because the only bottles most people used to see were the four from their previous core lineup. This changed slightly in 2024 when the distillery expanded the core Single Barrel to include a yearly, rotating selection of other recipes. Prior to that, the only way people could actually explore these recipes was through rare single barrel picks bottled at cask strength. These are generally aged 8-12 years, with recent versions leaning younger.

This is where the ultra-aged Visitor’s Center special releases come in.

Although gift shop single barrels are hardly a rare sight, Four Roses occasions to take the concept and run with it in a way that almost begs for a distributed release. Why do I say that? Because otherwise, the only way to experience highly aged Four Roses bourbon is through the annual Limited Edition Small Batch, which are always blends and frequently use the same four recipes (both Vs and Ks). In other words…good luck trying to find an F or O single barrel aged 12+ years.

Case in point: The recent 20-Year Visitor’s Center Single Barrel we’re looking at today. I came into a sample through a generous peer. This particular bottle utilized the popular OBSV recipe, came from barrel FS 4I-3Q, was aged 20 years, and bottled at 56.7% ABV.

Nose: Luxardo Cherry, Vanilla, Maple Syrup, Red Gushers, Petrichor

Dark, Leathery, Earthy

Palate: Molasses, Luxardo Cherry, Green Apple, Tobacco

Rich, Dense, Leathery

Finish: Vanilla, Cherry Syrup, Caramel, Strawberry

Long, Syrupy, Mildly Tart

Anyone who knows me knows I’m a Four Roses lover—possibly a fanboy. I used to be a buy-on-sight person when finding Four Roses picks up to $120; now I exercise restraint but still cave rather easily for Four Roses. Point being: I’m a huge fan, one who often holds the distillery in high regard, even when it frustrates me. That exact sentiment extends to this prestigious Visitor’s Center single barrel.

Both of my tasting sessions with this bourbon began with me doing double-takes, since this initially noses like an O rather than a V. That first impression extends to the upfront palate, which unleashes overtones of molasses, luxardo cherry, and leather. Past that, this is one rich, syrupy, and sneakily powerful dram that truly blossoms over time. Where the nose and palate lead things in a way that makes the oak feel overdone, the ensuing experience is pretty spectacular. The leather and tobacco notes naturally give way to a progression of fruit, dessert, and balanced spice notes that feels symphonic in nature. It’s lengthy and positively delightful.

In and of itself, this isn’t my favorite Four Roses pick. That said, it offered a welcome perspective when considering future single barrels and what I might want to look for. It’s a perfect example of a whiskey being greater than the sum of its parts.